Dolce&Gabbana celebrates Leonardo da Vinci by launching a new “Manifattura italiana” timepiece, with the exclusive caliber DG 01.05 movement, assembled by hand by master watchmakers in Geneva. Over the course of his life, Leonardo never built a clock. Yet many of his notes and drawings collected in the “Codex Atlanticus” at the Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana tell of his passion for instruments of astronomy and the measurement of time. In particular, the Clock Tower of the Abbey of Chiaravalle near Milan, built in 1368 and destroyed in 1592, was studied at length by the genius of the Renaissance. Fascinated by the complexity of its mechanisms, the peerless master attempted to improve them with the introduction of a worm drive, a gear that would allow him to reduce the number of wheels.
Leonardo
After five centuries of relative obscurity, with the creation of the “Leonardo” timepiece, Dolce&Gabbana has brought to light the main features of the extraordinary Chiaravalle clock, the subject of intense scientific speculation by Da Vinci: the main dial reproduces a drawing of Leonardo’s from the “Codex Atlanticus”, demonstrating his exceptional qualities as a mechanical engineer. The 24-hour complication, historically associated with the so-called “hora italica”, and the addition of a “perpetual” helical gear that determines its movement, also pay homage to that unique system for measuring time and to the universal genius of the 16th century. Not to mention the secondary complication of the moon phases, which not only reinterpret the complex astronomical dial of the Abbey, but also evoke, along with the blue sapphire set in the crown, the avant-garde insights of the great master’s studies of the sky, the stars and the moon. The culture, art and Beauty of Italy have not only inspired the design of this timepiece but have also determined the beautiful engravings of the case, entirely executed by hand by the finest Italian goldsmiths. However, without the technical virtuosity of the Swiss movement, the new watch would never have seen the light of day, because it is only by combining tradition and innovation, creativity and precision that the masterpiece “Leonardo” was able to take shape.
“Leonardo”
With Dolce&Gabbana 12 – 24- Hour Movement and Moon Phases
Dial
Pink gold with roman markers for the 12 hours and 24-hour counter, functioning with “helicoidal” transmission
Moon phases: at 6 o’clock
Hands: pink gold-plated dauphine
Strap: brown alligator
Deployant clasp: pink gold
Case
Material: pink gold
Size: 45 mm diameter
Glass: convex “sapphire”
Clasp: with safety closure and five lateral screws
Crown: in pink gold set with 1 blue sapphire
Movement DG 01.05
Automatic caliber with classic escapement
12-hour dial, 24-hour counter and moon phases
General Information
Diameter: 36 mm
Height: 6.30 mm
Number of components: 289
Number of rubies: 38
Movement type: automatic – self-winding
Power reserve: 55 hours (tolerance 0/-3 hours)
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Technical Data
Constant force M0: 380 g*mm
Barrel wheel total revolution: 12.2 revolution
Barrel wheel revolution per hour: 5.15 revolution
Mainspring type: slipping bridle
Spiral type: flat spiral
Balance wheel type: balance wheel
with gold micro mass weights, variable inertia
Escapement wheel: 15 teeth
Balance wheel inertia: 10.00 mg.cm2
Lift angle: 46°
Caliber weight: 28.02 grams
Rotor material: sintered metal made of tungsten carbide
Rotor weight: 2.70 grams
To learn more about the entire Dolce&Gabbana Alta Orologeria Collection please contact us at altagioielleria@dolcegabbana.it
“Making of” images and still life photos
Massimo Bianchi